The Journal

What I would tell you before you book.

I write these the way I answer the same questions on the phone: when to come, how many days it takes, what is worth the money and what is not. No listicles, no places I have not been.

Early morning on an empty Gallura coast road curving between granite boulders toward a turquoise bay

Planning · 9 minute read

One week in Sardinia, a shape rather than a schedule.

How I build a seven night week in Sardinia: one base, two anchors, a movable boat day and two empty afternoons. The shape I use, and why a schedule breaks by Tuesday.

Granite headland and turquoise water on the Gallura coast, the stretch a seven day storyline is usually built around

Planning · 7 minute read

How many days do you need in Sardinia?

Five, seven and ten day shapes for Sardinia, what each one can honestly hold, and the mistake that costs most first visits a full day of the island.

Golden hour on the Gallura coast, granite boulders above a quiet cove north of the Costa Smeralda

Comparison · 8 minute read

Costa Smeralda versus the real Gallura.

What the Costa Smeralda is genuinely good for, what it costs, and where the rest of the Gallura gives you the same coast without the velvet rope. Written by someone who worked there.

A classic wooden ketch anchored in turquoise water off the Sardinian coast in early summer light

Seasons · 8 minute read

When to go to Sardinia, month by month.

My month by month read on Sardinia: the weeks I book first, the two weeks locals avoid, sea temperatures, what closes in winter, and how the season changes the trip.

Logistics

NYC to Sardinia: how to actually get there.

Which airport to pick, the seasonal nonstop windows, the one-stop routings I book, and the arrival timing that saves you a day.

Or read a finished week: Coves of the Gallura, Maddalena to Asinara and Inland Barbagia.

And before you book flights, read New York to Sardinia, which covers airport choice, seasonal nonstops and arrival timing.